Sewing classic women’s trousers is not an easy task. But if you understand all the nuances and correctly build (or find) a good pattern, it is quite possible to do this. By carefully following the instructions and adhering to all recommendations, you can create your ideal model of stylish and comfortable trousers. But first things first. We offer cutting and sewing technology for classic women’s trousers without a zipper with an elastic band and with a belt.
What fabrics are suitable for women’s leather corset?
It is recommended to use one type of fabric for sewing black leather corset yourself. This is especially true for novice seamstresses. The thing is that different fabrics require the right attitude (choice of threads, tension, etc.). In addition, not all fabrics can be combined with each other, since different types of textiles react in their own way to the temperature regime of washing / ironing and other parameters of fabric care.
The most optimal option for classic-cut leather corset is suit fabrics such as tweed, jacquard, cashmere and the like. The requirements for the material are as follows: the fabric must be dense enough, withstand frequent washing and strong irons, keep its shape, not stretch.
Additionally, you need to stock up on glue cloth, which can be non-woven, an elastic band, threads to match future trousers and tools. As for material consumption, we measure the length of the finished product and add 15 cm to the seams and belt.
Choosing a pattern for trousers
To sew women’s trousers, you need a pattern . You can do it yourself, or you can buy a ready-made one. But in any case, you should first take measurements at least in order to determine the size of your trousers.
If you use a ready-made pattern of a classic model of trousers, when transferring it to fabric, you will need to make some changes, namely: on the outside of the pattern from the hip level, you do not need to pay attention to the fact that the side cut is rounded. Instead, just lift the perpendicular up to the belt line. Since this model does not provide for a zipper, the width of the waist of the trousers and the width of the hips must be equal.
You can build a pattern for sewing trousers with your own hands. In this case, use special manuals, carefully taking measurements and making drawings.
Correct fabric cutting
Before you attach the pattern to the fabric, make the first cut, it is imperative to decorate the material. Whichever fabric you choose for sewing trousers, before cutting you need to perform a wet-heat treatment, i.e. the material must be washed, dried and ironed, or thoroughly steam the fabric with an iron. This will avoid possible shrinkage and natural shedding. The method of decating depends on the type of fabric. The lining fabric must also be properly prepared for cutting. To do this, it is pre-soaked in water, squeezed out quite a bit and dried slightly, pressing it while still wet.
Now you can fold the fabric with the right side inward, lay out the details of the pattern of future trousers on the wrong side. Be sure to observe the direction of the common thread: it must run parallel to the line of the middle of the parts.
The patterns are laid out along the edge of the fabric, stepping back 1 cm from the edge of the material (upper cut). If you are planning a one-piece belt (included in the leg), then to this centimeter you still need to add double the estimated width of the belt (4-8 cm). For the side seam, lay 1–1.5 cm. For this, the patterns are shifted to the side from the edge to the desired distance. Use a chalk or fabric marker to transfer the outline of the pattern onto the fabric.
Sewing technology of classic trousers
The back half of the trousers is laid out with the wrong side down, and the front half is applied to it face to face. With the help of tailor’s pins, the side cuts are combined, as well as the inner step cuts. Do not be confused that the back half of the pattern is larger than the front, it should be so. Just pull the stepping cut of the front half towards the back a little, using pins to fasten both parts.
Correct processing of slices
The most optimal option is to use an overlock. But if you don’t have such equipment, you can cope without it.
The most popular way to cut fabric without overlock is with a zigzag stitch. You need to make a seam in such a way that it grips the edges of the fabric. It is recommended to make the stitch wide enough, with a high frequency, so that it grips the fabric as much as possible.
An even easier but surer way to protect the edges from fraying is with a straight hem stitch. In this case, the edges of the sections are located on opposite sides of the seam, each of them is folded inward and ironed out. A seam is made at a distance of 1 mm from the edge of the product.
If the garment is sewn from fabrics with a dense weave of threads, the free edges can be processed with special scissors with a zigzag blade. But such a manipulation requires skill so that the teeth along the edge of the product turn out to be even. In this case, it is best to lay a line at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge of the product.